FEBRUARY 20 - WADI RUM

Today, we explored Wadi Rum desert and headed to our next destination, the Dead Sea, about four hours away.  Upon awakening.....

 

 

After another wonderful meal - breakfast - consisting of eggs and all sorts of "starters," our hosts gave us a little tour of the Palmera Camp and the other rooms available for guests.

 

The surrounding area of the Camp was beautifully designed as well.

 

A common bar area was also available for guests, and I particularly liked the game table designed with American flags. 

 

Our host, Sameh, traveled with us for a little distance to show us his camels

as well as rock drawings from 700 BC and a poisonous green plant, asphodel, that grows in the desert.

 
Wadi Rum and the Palmera Camp are places that we would both return to in an instant.  The desert offers so much and the Palmera Camp would be a beautifully tranquil place to absorb all the wonders Wadi Rum has to offer.  

Saying good-bye to our host, Sameh, we drove through the desert stopping to explore a gorge.  I decided to take a quick video of walking in the red sand which I still find fascinating.  

Although there were a couple of younger people traversing the gorge, we didn't navigate far into it because it was quite treacherous for us.  

 

The nearby rock formation, Jebel Burdah Rock Bridge, was quite spectacular and we saw people walking across it.  .

 

We stopped for the perfunctory tea at a shop where Michael modeled the different ways to wear a kuffiyeh held in place with an iqal worn to protect from the sun and sand.  (He looked just like one of the locals, doesn't he???)  The iqal is not only decorative, but it is actually what is used to bind the camel's hind legs (mentioned above) to prevent the babies from suckling all night. 

 

Now we come to the "highlight" of the trip.  (Because this is written, you might not be able to catch the sarcasm in my voice.)  

As mentioned earlier about our trip to Egypt, I had declined to ride a camel, but, here in Jordan, I figured this was my very last chance to do so and said, "Ok.  I'll try it." At this point, Michael was willing to go for it too.  

Now, you have to know that over the past few years I have chosen not to participate in any activity that would require me to sign a "waiver of liability." I'm 70 years old and don't need to partake in any dare-devil stuff anymore.  I've done parasailing, indoor skydiving, body surfing on a Flow rider on a cruise ship, etc.  Been there, done it, ain't gonna do it again - is my philosophy.  Of course, in Wadi Rum desert, there wasn't anyone requiring me to sign a waiver of liability, but I figured this would've required one anywhere else!  I should've heed the little warning bells going off in my head but nooooooo......

The camel herders arrived with two camels and the people who were riding them descended from them and waited for us to approach.  Zak, our guide, was right there.  Both camels were sitting on the ground - one behind the other - and I was directed to mount the second camel.  Well, my legs aren't that long and there wasn't a leather saddle that could easily be slid across.  I approached the camel's left side and my right leg hadn't made it all the way to the camel's right side when the front (leader) camel got up which, of course, caused the second (follower) camel to get up.  Well, I wasn't yet sitting upright on the second camel but hanging over its neck and left shoulder.  Fortunately, Zak was there holding my left leg while I somewhat frantically held on to the horn while the two camels started to make a lot of noise while walking.  The herders were yelling at the camels and, according to Michael, after about 15 steps, my camel finally was brought down to the sitting position while I as ungraciously as I could slid my right leg off its hump.  Somewhat shook, I carefully walked over to Michael who was probably suffering from shell shock.  He told me he hadn't taken any photos because, had he, I would've divorced him for memorializing this moment.  It wasn't one of my finest moments, and Michael said, "It wasn't pretty."   

It wasn't long after we got back to the car, drove out of Wadi Rum, picked up our driver, Mohammad, for our trip to the Dead Sea, when the left side of my chest didn't feel right.  I ended up with a bruise on my skin from slamming into the camel's shoulder, and, upon returning home, my doctor confirmed that I probably had a contusion on my chest wall because of my discomfort while breathing.  Fortunately, I didn't break a rib but probably bruised one.  Next time, I will definitely listen to the little voice inside my head!  DO NOTHING THAT REQUIRES A WAIVER OF LIABILITY!  Words to live by!

We were on our way for lunch in Aqaba on our way to the Dead Sea, but stopped to take another CCP virus test required by Israel, where we would be headed in two days.  Another cost of $28.00 for both of our tests which were, of course, negative.  

We had lunch at a restaurant which was right across from, apparently, a very famous Mosque because, as we sat in the restaurant, we watched a lot of people come, take photos in front of it, and drive off.  I believe it was the Masjid Al Hussein Bin Ali Mosque.  As you can see, there were lots of salads again and the lunch included sea bream, a fish called "sayadia."

At 1:15, we left Aqaba and began our drive to the Dead Sea, about 3 1/2 hours away.  The Dead Sea is at 1,450 feet below sea level, the lowest area on Earth.  

Life in Jordan is not an easy one.  Jordan, 90,000 sq. km., is the size of Utah.  Average salaries are about 240 JD to 400 JD (1 Jordanian dinar = $1.40) - $336 to $560 per month.  For example, a receptionist at a hotel (depending on the hotel) earns anywhere from 400 JD to 800 JD.  Rents average around 130 JD.  There are very limited opportunities in Jordan and unemployment is at 18%;  the country's debt is $45 billion.  Surprisingly, and similar to the United States, young people there have a sense of entitlement.  

We arrived at our home for the next two nights, the magnificent Kempinski Hotel Ishtar at the Dead Sea.  The area is lined with five star hotels and there's a very large building nearby, the King Hussein Bin Talal Convention Center which hosts business conventions and conferences. 

I would have to say that the Kempinski Hotel was my favorite hotel of our entire trip and not only because it was the first and only hotel that had bathrobes that could actually fit this woman's full-figured body....

 

The views, acres of beautiful landscaping, countless pools, luxury of the rooms, restaurants, friendliness of the people and the nearby Dead Sea combined created an ambience that remains unforgettable.

 

 A beautiful sunset view from our balcony

 

 

Dinner was on our own and we had several restaurants at the resort to choose from.  We chose the Ashur Restaurant.  As in the previous hotel in Amman, the menus were only available on the television using a VC scanner. 

 

We chose not to call for a golf cart that drives you 24/7 around the resort.  We decided to walk to the restaurant which didn't seem that far away, only three or four levels below our room;  we got very turned around but managed to eventually make our way to the restaurant after asking a couple of golf cart drivers that were scooting around the resort.  We were greeted by the wonderful outlet manager, Dimitri, who was from Greece and had only arrived in Jordan about a week earlier from Africa to start this new position at the Kempinski.  We chose to sit outside to enjoy the surroundings and I was offered a blanket to be more comfortable.  

 

 

 

 

One of the pools was right in front of us;  beyond it was the Dead Sea. 

 

We should've taken pictures of the our delicious meals but didn't.  I had a fabulous risotto and the wine, I seldom drink, was a local Shiraz we both loved!  

During the evening, both Dimitri and our wonderful waiter, Saleh Alkfarnh, were absolutely generous, personable and gracious to us .... we would not realize just how much so until the following night when we decided to return for dinner again ......

In the golf cart taking us back to our room, we thought about the full day we enjoyed, including a far-too brief tour of Wadi Rum, an incredibly lame attempt to ride a camel, a delicious lunch in Aqaba, a comfortable car ride to the Dead Sea and a lovely dinner at the Kempinski.  We look forward to a very busy day tomorrow - our visit to Bethany.... the Baptismal place of Jesus!