FEBRUARY 19 - PETRA

When we booked this tour with A&K, there was no hesitation when we had the opportunity to add Jordan and Israel Ancient Wonders to Egypt & the Nile.  After over 500 days of cruising, two world cruises and visiting over 70 countries, Petra was Michael's favorite place.  How could we go all the way to Egypt and not visit Petra again?  

We had visited Petra on our 2016 World Cruise and I wrote about that visit in my blog for that trip. I do have to correct some information contained therein.  We were definitely misinformed back in 2016 - the city was NOT carved out of camel bone.  We were told, this time around, that iron chisels were used and hammers.  

Regardless, besides the pyramids in Egypt, this is a MOST impressive city and has been named one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.  Again, if anyone has any interest in learning more about this Nabataean wonder, you can always search on the internet.  A great article can be found here.

But first, we packed our suitcases and had a lovely breakfast at the hotel before we left.  The hostess was so lovely in her Jordanian dress that I asked if it was alright to take her photo.  She was very cordial and did not mind being photographed.  

After breakfast, we dressed warmly and set out with Zak for the visitor's center, a square that houses lots of little tourist and souvenir shops selling umbrellas, books, bags, magnets, statues, replicas of the various buildings in Petra, etc., etc.  

I love this photo I took of Michael;  unfortunately, there was no I could've actually knelt down to reveal my face through the cut out next to him.   

 

According to our itinerary, Petra has been described by UNESCO as "one of the most precious cultural properties on man's cultural heritage." Major sites include the Treasury (familiar to viewers of the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade), the Temple of the Winged Lions and the Palace Tomb.  Once a rich merchant city and a stop for the camel caravans bringing spices, silk and slaves from Arabia to the Mediterranean, Petra was lost for 1,000 years, emerging from antiquity in 1812, when it was re-discovered by the Swiss explorer, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt." 

The Nabataeans were an amazing people.  Apparently, they inhabited what they called, "Little Petra," a smaller city where the caravans stopped and where they traded water for other commodities, such as frankincense and myrrh.  The Nabataeans did not want the city of Petra to be discovered by the caravans because it was there, Petra, that they were able to collect the very valuable and precious commodity - rain water - in a sophisticated system of cisterns.  Unfortunately, Petra would eventually become a Roman station in 106 A.D.

Prior to entering the Siq, the narrow .75 mile gorge, we stopped at The Sand Castle for some tea and souvenirs and were hosted by a very charming young man by the name of Khalil.  

 

The delicious tea along with the wonderful scents produced by burning incense throughout the store created an ambience of being in another world. 

 

I took the opportunity to ask Khalil about the dark outline on his lower eyelids and whether this was a fashion statement, a cultural thing or something else. It is very common among Jordanian men - or at least those we saw throughout the day in Petra.  In the Western world, this look has been made famous by people like Johnny Depp and Keith Richards.  I've always found the look very attractive but I learned it wasn't a "beauty tip." Khalil explained to me that it is a very old custom using "kohl." It is used on the lower eyelid for overall eye health and for protection of the eye against the sun (--similar to football players putting black stuff under their eyes during games).  He graciously offered to do my eyes. 

You can actually see the kohl on my lower lids.  It wasn't simply a pencil (or I would've bought it) but something that was actually heated up and applied.  I know it lasted a lot longer than eye pencils I've tried since! 

I hadn't realized at the time, but I actually bought a little jar while we were on the Sanctuary Sun Boat IV in Egypt which still contained some "kohl" which you can see on my finger.   For the price I paid for it, it was not an antique but something that someone, more recently, actually used. 

Various Incenses for Sale

We bought this lovely little box depicting in mini-mosaics The Tree of Life and some incense.  

It was time to proceed through the Siq and we promised to stop in on our way back for another cup of tea.  

Although there wasn't a rainstorm the day before like the last time we were in the Siq, it is still a very treacherous trek because the ground is so uneven.  Sometimes it's flat; sometimes it's cobbled which is always tricky to navigate.  

But, even though we've been through it before and we knew exactly what we would find at the end, it didn't make it any less exciting for us even when we were able to see what awaited us.  

 

As we completed our trek through the Siq, we proceeded with anticipation to see the incredible "Treasury."  "Known locally as Al Khazneh, this tomb is where most visitors fall in love with Petra. The Hellenistic facade is an astonishing piece of craftsmanship. Although carved out of iron-laden sandstone to serve as a tomb for the Nabataean King Aretas III (c. 100 BC–200 AD), the Treasury derives its name from the story that an Egyptian pharaoh hid his treasure here (in the facade urn) while pursuing the Israelites."  It was inspired by the Library of Celsus in Ephesus.

We had the opportunity, this time, to sit in front of it, watching the nearby camels, and listening to Zak describe and explain the entire facade.  The entrepreneurs around the city were most anxious for us to take camel rides which we declined. 

Camels, the "ships of the desert" are very interesting creatures.  The camels in this area of the world are dromedary camels - with one hump.  (Two-humped camels or bactrian camels can be found in other parts of Asia;  bactrian camels could not survive the heat in the Middle East.)  I couldn't help but notice how they sat on their back "knees" - almost human-like - when on the ground.  Their legs are actually bound at night so their babies don't suckle all night which is bad for both the baby and the mommy. 

After our little history lesson with Zak and with lots ahead of us to see, we proceeded through the city.  Last time we were here in 2016, Michael went all the way to the Monastery, which was available for us to do on our own this time, but we both decided it wasn't necessary (and, as this day will enfold) and a good decision on our part.  Last time on my own, I had only gotten to the Amphitheater.  As can be seen on the map, there is a lot to see here.  We passed the Street of Facades, the Theatre, the Royal Tombs, the Nymphaeum, Colonnaded Street, the Great Temple eventually arriving at the restaurant for lunch. 

 
Along the way, we stopped and watched a man make sand bottles with multi-colored sand designs - here, particularly, camels.  We had bought one in Dubai during our world cruise in 2016 and didn't feel the need to buy another one but it's always amazing to watch these artisans at work and how these images are created.

As a guide, Zak intended to return to the hotel by car and we had the option of taking a camel or buggy back to the Treasury and then traversing the Siq back to our hotel.  We had every intention of walking back to the Treasury and out through the Siq - another 6 miles or so.   However, while enjoying our buffet lunch, things took a turn for the...well, ...  I have to say, "worse" as far as walking back.  It began raining buckets and did not stop!  Having walked in the red sand for miles, it would turn into red mud, making it very dangerous and very timely to get back. 

Zak negotiated a horse cart ride back to the Treasury for us and on we went.  Unfortunately,the carriage was completely open and the seat was soaking wet.  

 

Back at the Treasury, we then negotiated on our own and hired a golf cart to take us back through the Siq.  Needless to say, we weren't able to take Khalil up on his gracious offer for another tea at his shop because of the rain and our need to get back to the hotel to meet Zak and Mohammad. 

When we were there in 2016, there were horse buggies traveling through the Siq that, apparently, aren't available anymore.  I did write about it in our 2016 blog if anyone is interested and which I highlighted at the beginning of this report.  

 

We did arrive safe and sound although a bit wet at the visitor's center which was just across the street from our hotel. We met up with Zak and Mohammad, who already had our bags in the van, and we were soon off to Wadi Rum for our evening's stay at Palmera Camp and more adventure!  

We nestled into the van, trying to get warm after being pretty wet from the rain.  It would be a couple of hours before we arrived in Wadi Rum and traveled through the mountains (or high desert) at an altitude of 6400' feet above sea level.  And guess what we now faced.  Snow!!!

 

 

Mohammad was an excellent driver and he managed to keep us safe while we were stuck on the road because a car in front of us didn't have the proper tires on his car.  

It took a little while but we eventually proceeded and got to the entrance of Wadi Rum, where  we changed vehicles (the drivers usually stay at less luxurious hotels than the guests and tour guide).  Wadi Rum is really indescribable and definitely evokes a supernatural feeling.  It's no wonder that it's called the Valley of the Moon - which is "immense in size, color and awe-inspiring shapes" - and that movies such as "The Martian," "Lawrence of Arabia," "Star Wars: Rise of Skywalker," "Red Planet," etc., were filmed there.  

 

Driving through the desert, we saw the "Seven Pillars of Wisdom," the name of T.E. Lawrence's book.   

The mountains atop the red sand contrasted against the dusky sky was dramatic to say the least.  We were taken to our home for the night, Palmera Camp, where we were greeted by our hosts and owners of the Camp, Sameh Alkhateeb and Tamman Quaryouti.  To say we were treated graciously would be an under-statement.  We were treated like royalty!  

 

When we arrived, we were still pretty cold and somewhat wet from our trip to Petra but warmed up pretty quickly not only in spirit from our hosts' hospitality but from the warm, inviting atmosphere of the madafa where we sat near the fire and drank deliciously-fragrant hot tea.  

After our ol' bones warmed up a bit, we were shown to our own "Martian dome." 

 

We were not far from the reception area - just a two minute walk - and, after getting cleaned up and changed, we returned to our hosts for an incredible dinner served to us by Yazan, a young man who lives in Amman but stays at the Palmera Camp during the week.  

We learned that the Palmera Camp had just opened when the CCP virus spread throughout the world and they had just re-opened a couple of weeks before our arrival.  We were the only guests at the Camp and I pray that things have improved and that people are starting to travel again.   

You will notice the coat I'm wearing in this photo.  When we had arrived, I commented to Tammam that his coat was extraordinarily beautiful.  He's a tall man and wore this overcoat over his shoulders while talking with us.  I noticed the shiny fur-like lining and asked him about it.  Well, being the incredibly gracious host, he took his coat off and put it around my shoulders while I sat at the madafa.  He insisted that I take it back to our room but I politely turned down his most generous offer.  Well, as soon as we arrived for dinner, he immediately came over and put it around my shoulders again making sure I would be comfortable during dinner!  You'll also recognize my mainstay drink - lemon juice/water/mint. 

 

After a wonderful meal and saying our good nights to our fabulous hosts, we returned to our "dome."  Although we were hoping to do a bit of stargazing, we only managed to see a few stars because it was overcast.  But, nothing could've have ruined a most perfect day!