FEBRUARY 12 - EDFU/TEMPLE OF HORUS AND TEMPLE OF KOM OMBO

 

Following breakfast, our first stop of the day was the Temple of Horus at Edfu. (You can see from this photo what great transportation we were provided by A&K - for just the six of us together with Ahmed and our driver.  Pretty wonderful and very comfortable. 

 

 

 

 

Driving through the streets of Edfu, we saw these little buggies/chariots that were available for hire.  However, A&K did not feel that they were safe because of issues with the horses, drivers and the actual carts. 

 

Here we are at the Temple of Horus: 

 

I have spoken about Ahmed throughout this blog and how impressed we were with his incredible wealth of information.  Well, add to that his amazing ability at storytelling.  At the beginning of our visit to the Temple of Horus, Ahmed told us the story of the birth of Horus and the eventual death of his uncle, Set.  I have to say that I was absolutely mesmerized by Ahmed's ability to tell this story, and I can only compare my reaction to perhaps a child hearing his mother read "'Twas the Night Before Christmas" for the very first time.  I was captivated. 

While researching this myth, however, I see that there are many versions of the story of Isis and Osiris.  I spent hours trying to find the exact version told to us by Ahmed, but here is a summary of Ahmed's version from my memory and notes that pretty much gives you the gist of this love story (and, Ahmed, if you're reading this, please forgive me if I forgot or added something incorrectly):

The creator, Ra, had four children - Isis, Osiris, Set and Nephthys.  Isis and Osiris were very much in love.  Set, however, was very jealous of his brother, Osiris, and kills him.  He cut up his body into 14 pieces and scattered all the pieces around Egypt.  Isis, brokenhearted, enlists her sister, Nephtys, to help her find the body and re-assemble it.  She searched all over Egypt and was finally able to retrieve 13 pieces of Osiris's body, however, could not find his penis.  It was eventually found on Philae, having been swallowed by a catfish.  (The significance of this part of the story will be clearer when we get to Philae.)  Having re-assembled the body of Osiris, Isis unites with Osiris and she gives birth to Horus.  After the birth of Horus, he becomes aware of the deeds of Set and sets out to destroy him.  It is here, at Edfu, at the Temple of Horus that the last attack of Horus against Set takes place. 

I can't possibly analyze and describe each and every panel of the walls of these Temples and Tombs we've visited.  There is definitely a story behind each and every one of them and Ahmed was able to enlighten us about the commonalities found in them.  As I've said before, this blog is not about history or Egyptology;  it is about our memories, feelings, thoughts and experiences with added photos to help put you there with us. 

 

Afterwards, we had an opportunity to do a little shopping.  If you can see, this gentleman was trying to sell me a Taweret that I felt was too expensive and too big. 

After the tour, we returned to the boat where we met later in the morning for a talk with Ahmed in the Boat's library.

Afterwards, I attended a cooking lesson by the Boat's chef.  Lucky for me, the Chef was teaching how to make babaghanoug salad (MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE DISH which I hope to make once I find where I can buy tahini), koshary, a dish with rice vermicelli and pasta and omm ali, a dessert.  

Everything was so delicious, I hardly had any room for lunch! 

 

After lunch, I scheduled a massage with the Boat's massage therapist, Jasmine, who was lovely, friendly and very good.

 

 

Before dinner, we enjoyed a sundowner and lovely sunset.  The drink in front of me is one that I enjoyed throughout our travels - lemon juice, water and mint - that I mentioned earlier.  Each country makes it a little different but it's very refreshing!

 

 

Back out again around 5:30 to visit the Temple of Kom Ombo, dedicated to the crocodile-god Sobek. 

 

Because all the Nile River boats apparently arrive at Aswan at the same time, we faced lots of crowds of people trying to enter the Temple at the same time.  It was slow-going making out way onto the Temple grounds.  

 

 

An interesting part of the Temple was the alcove carved for the "oracle." In ancient times, people would come to the Temple and seek advice.  A priest would "hide" within the alcove and provide "advice" which, because of the engineering, would reverberate within the walls of the Temple and be heard by the pilgrim seeking guidance.

 

We also visited the Crocodile Museum which had lots of mummified crocodiles.  

Walking back to the boat, I, of course, stopped again to find a Taweret and/or more magnets.  

 

After returning to the Boat and having dinner, tonight's entertainment was an "Egyptian Night" costume party for all guests.  Complimentary traditional Egyptian "galabeyyas" were available to us and, although we could've, we didn't bring them home for lack of space in our suitcases.  Food was great at dinner, music for dancing was wonderful and we were able to buy the professional photographs taken of us the following morning and, of course, we continued to enjoy the birthday celebration for Alex and Ed!